...Do as the Romans

Day Two was busy! We were up and out of the hotel by 8 a.m. and on the way to tour the Colosseum. While the architecture wasn't as glorious as what the Greek's produced, the engineering is a marvel. Taking two amphitheaters and putting them together to create the first arena, with a cover on top (domed arena), pulleys and elevators to bring animals and gladiators, and prisoners to the surface for battles of "sport," and the ability to seat 50,000 people who could all get out of the building at the end of the day within 15 minutes. Anyone who has sat in post-game traffic can appreciate that fete.

We then headed over to the Arch of Constantine and on to the Roman Forum. Lisa called the Forum the "Pit of Death" after she returned from visiting Rome in June several years ago. We were there on a lovely spring day with highs in the low 70's, but the lack of any shade and being in a bowl several feet below street level did make me appreciate how horrible it must have been for her and her companions. It was amazing to see the Rostrum, or "Speaker's Corner," and the Temple of Julius Caesar, where his body was cremated, along with the House of the Vestal Virgins and the remains of several other temples, but it was the Curia, or Roman Senate, that made this political geek's heart soar. I mean, here, in this spot, Julius Caesar, Marc Antony, Brutus, and Augustus, among so many others we know, debated, deliberated, and in many cases, plotted to overthrow by one means or another. Here also was the beginnings of a republican (little "R") form of government. I was overwhelmed again.

Next we were supposed to head to the Pantheon, stopping on the way to see a Michelangelo and a Bernini, not to mention getting a bite to eat. However, I decided to let Mom do a little of the guiding, and so handed over the map once we were in front of the Victor Emmanuel Monument, ready for her to take us a few blocks northwest. We headed down a quaint little roadway, farther south than I thought was necessary, but she was in charge. It was so lovely to walk through some back streets where you didn't worry about the traffic running you over. We enjoyed some street music, while still wandering back streets, and then we turned a corner and I knew exactly where we were. We were in the ghetto. Mom was horrified, quickly looking up from the map, thinking we were going to be mugged any moment. But it was a perfectly good neighborhood, and not what Americans think of when we use the word "ghetto." I meant the original meaning of the word. The Jewish Ghetto, that is. Every deli and restaurant sign declared Kosher food. It was fun to see, but having studied the map for a long time, I knew we were also several blocks south of where we wanted to be. That was the end of Mom's time as tour guide.

Finally we wound our way north and found some lunch, and some gelato. We also finally saw Bernini's elephant, which stole Mom's heart, along with our first of many Michelangelo's.

Then we were at the Pantheon. The oldest, continually used building in Rome. Originally a temple, turned into a Christian church, and the burial place of Raphael and two of Italy's first kings, it is another engineering marvel. And it was just lovely inside, lit up by the ocular "eye in the sky." We listened to a RS audioguide and enjoyed the cool air.

Afterwards we moved on to Piazza Navona, where we had an early dinner and enjoyed the Four Rivers Fountain and street art. We were still feeling pretty good, even after a long day of playing tourist, so we decided to try to follow Rick Steves's Night Walk Across Rome, from the Campo de Fiori to the Spanish Steps. We backtracked a bit, as Piazza Navona was the third stop on the walking tour, and visited the statue of the heretic Bruno, along with the remains of the old Pompey Theater, which was where Julius Caesar was assassinated while the Senate rented space in the building. We moved on through Piazza Navona and back to the Pantheon, where we ran into the beginning act of a mime. He was so good that we stayed and watched him for 45 minutes, by which time no one was willing to walk through the circle of spectators ringing around him for fear of unwittingly becoming part of the show.

We continued on, getting more gelato along the way and finally, finally making it as far as the Trevi Fountain, after a little confusion as to where we were. By that time the 13 hour day and the many miles walked were beginning to wear on us. We decided the Spanish Steps could wait for a different day, and Mom "encouraged" the idea of a taxi, which we gladly took back to our little hotel by the Colosseum.

This was the one and only day on our trip where we did not take a break from morning until night. We felt so good after a full night's sleep and we were so excited to be in Rome and with so much to see that we just kept going. And were exhausted by the end of the day. From then on, we spent just a little time every afternoon taking a break in our hotel room. All in all, I think there were only a few minor places that I had on our ambitious itinerary that we didn't get to, and the rest was well worth it. After all, I certainly intend to go back!